Hola Friends, Ask a Portuguese person for a comfort dish, and there’s a good chance that bacalhau à Brás will come up. It’s made of salt cod, onions and crispy potato, all bound together with soft, barely set scrambled eggs. It looks simple, and it is, but it’s one of the most loved dishes in Portugal.
We came across it recently, because Sam read that it’s Cristiano Ronaldo’s favourite dish. That was enough for him to want to try it. We haven’t cooked it yet, but we couldn’t resist finding out more.
What is bacalhau à Brás?
Bacalhau à Brás is a Portuguese dish of shredded salt cod, onions and very thin fried potatoes, held together with beaten eggs. It’s usually finished with black olives and fresh flat-leaf parsley.
The potatoes are cut into thin matchsticks and fried, which gives the dish its texture. The eggs are stirred in at the end and cooked gently, so they stay soft and creamy and coat everything else, rather than setting into a firm omelette.
Where does the name come from?
The exact origin isn’t certain. In its current form, the dish is said to date from the second half of the 19th century, and it’s linked to Bairro Alto, an old quarter of Lisbon. The name “Brás” is believed to belong to the person who created it, often described as a tavern owner, although nobody knows for sure. The dish probably grew out of older salt cod recipes that used similar techniques.
The “à Brás” style has become a method in its own right. In Portugal, you will also find versions with chicken, vegetables or mushrooms in place of the cod.
What is salt cod?
Bacalhau is the Portuguese word for cod that has been salted and dried. Spain’s version is called bacalao, and you’ll find it in Italian and other Mediterranean kitchens, too. Salting was originally a way to preserve fish for long journeys and for months without refrigeration. Today, it’s valued for its flavour and its firm, flaky texture.
Before you cook salt cod, you need to soak it in cold water to remove the salt. This usually takes at least a day, with the water changed regularly. It’s the part that needs planning, because you can’t make this dish on the spur of the moment. Check the instructions on the package of the cod you buy, because the soaking time depends on the thickness.
Why is it connected to Ronaldo?
Several media outlets name bacalhau à Brás as one of Cristiano Ronaldo’s favourite dishes. Some reports go further and call it a recipe from his mother, but that’s repeated in the press rather than documented, so we’ll treat it as a nice story. The dish is also served at hotels and restaurants linked to him in Portugal.
You don’t need to be a football fan to see why it has such a following. It’s a family dish, tied to childhood memories for many Portuguese people.
What does it taste like?
Imagine a savoury, slightly salty, comforting dish. The cod gives it its depth, the onion adds sweetness, the potato adds crunch, and the eggs bind everything into a soft, creamy mixture. Olives and parsley on top add a briny, fresh finish.
What to serve with it
Bacalhau à Brás is a full dish on its own. A simple green salad and some good bread are all you need. A crisp white wine, such as a Portuguese vinho verde, is a classic match.
If you like the combination of potato and egg, you might also enjoy our Spanish tortilla de patatas. And if you’d like to know more about the olives that finish this dish, have a look at our guide to Niçoise olives and tapenade.
Frequently asked questions
Is bacalhau the same as bacalao? Both mean salted, dried cod. Bacalhau is Portuguese, bacalao is Spanish.
Do you have to soak the salt cod? Yes. Salt cod must be soaked in cold water, with several changes of water, before cooking. Follow the guidance on the package.
Are the potatoes fried? Traditionally, yes. The potatoes are cut into thin matchsticks and fried until crisp, then mixed in at the end.
Can you make it with other ingredients? The “à Brás” method is used for other ingredients, too, including chicken, vegetables and mushrooms.
Is it really Ronaldo’s favourite dish? It’s widely reported as one of his favourites, though that comes from media coverage, not from anything we can verify ourselves.
Our plan
We haven’t made bacalhau à Brás ourselves yet, but Sam is keen to give it a try. If it turns out well, we’ll share our version here.
